One of BiALP’s most recent expeditions took the team to Aconcagua, the highest peak outside of Asia, standing at an imposing 6,961 meters above sea level. The team consisted of Paolo Rodi, a resident surgeon at University Hospital Zurich, Giovanni Cappa, an emergency doctor specializing in extreme environments, and Davide Pellegrini, an alpine rescue expert. Below, Paolo shares his firsthand account of their journey – a tale of scientific pursuit, endurance, and the raw challenges of high-altitude research.
By Paolo, on behalf of the BiALP team:
We have just returned from Aconcagua, and I am thrilled to report that our mission was a success—academically, physically, and personally! Not only did we gather the necessary data for our project, but we also managed to reach the summit after an exceptionally challenging climb.
We spent 10 days at base camp "Plaza de Mulas" (4,300 m) acclimatizing and collecting data. During this time, we transported gas and materials in alpine style—without guides or porters—to minimize costs while preparing for our ascent. The high-altitude environment posed physical challenges, requiring us to adjust our plans to ensure both safety and successful data collection.
On February 14th, we left base camp for good, moving to the higher camps. Five days later, on the morning of February 19th, after completing critical ventilation tests and lung ultrasound measurements at 6,000 m, we found ourselves with a short window of favorable weather. Seizing the opportunity, we decided to attempt the summit push—a grueling 900-meter ascent.
The day began at 2:30 am as we melted snow for drinking water. By 4:00 am, we were on the move, overtaking several commercial expeditions along the way. It was an excruciating experience, possibly one of the most brutal days of our lives. We moved in slow motion, struggling to draw enough air into our lungs. One of our team members had to turn back due to symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness. Giovanni and I pressed on, battling temperatures of -20 to -25°C. After eight exhausting hours over snow, ice, and rock, we finally reached the summit—a small stone terrace marked by a tiny condor-shaped cross we had seen countless times in photographs.
There was little time to savor the moment. After a few quick photos, we began our descent, encountering familiar faces distorted by fatigue and hypoxia—the same expressions we had undoubtedly worn on the way up. Upon reaching Camp 3, we rested briefly before dismantling our tent and moving down to Camp 2. The following day, we finally returned to Base Camp, welcomed by long-missed comforts: proper food, running water, and a safe place to sleep without the relentless 80 km/h winds that had plagued us at higher elevations.
This expedition reinforced the immense challenges of conducting research in extreme environments. The physical toll is as significant as the logistical and financial hurdles, yet every data point we collect is invaluable.
Paolo, Giovanni, Davide, and the entire BiALP team
